Pleasure Dome Days

Received Saturday, April 14

[Click on the pictures to see larger versions with captions.]

Fourteen of Russell's 30-strong Sherpa team marched into base camp last night after rigging ropes and installing ladders (to span crevasses) to the North Col. All expeditions in "Everestville" will eventually use this highway of ropes after they've acclimatized. That the Sherpas, from Nepal and Tibet, have been able to pave the way so early shows how mountain fit and permanently acclimatized they are.

"The boys are chomping at the bit to get up this hill," said Russell after the Sherpas had briefed him on conditions up there, which they say present lots of hard, exposed ice. Many of those Sherpas have been trained by Russell and his guides.

Meanwhile, the Himex climbers remain at base camp, slowly acclimatizing. Some of the team are nursing headaches and lethargy, symptoms of our recent arrival at 17,000 feet (5,200 meters); others seem unaffected. Regardless, everyone must patiently adjust to the thinly oxygenated atmosphere surrounding us.

Even if the world's best Himalayan climber arrived at base camp fit and strong and decided to immediately stomp up Everest, that climber would collapse and probably die from a cocktail of high altitude maladies. The human body cannot push fast to 26,000 feet (8,000 meters); weeks of patience are essential.

So we bide our time, hiking around the stupendous valley, getting to know one another, and relaxing in the Pleasure Dome (which was recently party central for my 50th birthday; a grand place and great people to share hitting a half-century).

The Pleasure Dome was also recently the site of what might be an Everest record — namely, world's highest vacuum cleaning. Russell's Pleasure Dome is carpeted wall-to-wall and scattered with thick Nepali rugs, so periodic sweeping is required. But the sight of teammember Betsy Huelskamp pushing a vacuum cleaner struck me as a mountaineering first.

I even joined in, vigorously siphoning glacial dust from the floor until I was breathless. People who've been to my house will regard the idea of me getting behind a vacuum cleaner as a first in itself, but I assure you it was strictly for acclimatization training.

Jokes aside, several other firsts are planned by members of this team.

Mogens Jensen, a Dane, triathlete and lifelong asthmatic who doses himself with medication twice daily to fend off attacks, figures that getting to the summit will be a first for asthma sufferers. Climbing the highest peak seems the opposite of what an asthmatic should be doing, but Mogens wants to up the ante by climbing without bottled oxygen. Pharmaceutical company Smith Kline Beecham, which manufactures the medications Mogens takes, is backing his adventure. This year is his third try at Everest. Last year he cycled from Kathmandu to Tibet to acclimatize. He's ferociously fit.

Another first comes from Rod Baber, a Briton who has climbed the highest point in every country in Europe. He'll try a technology first by making a cell phone call from the summit. Motorola is backing his venture.

David Tait, a British financial whiz, and Sherpa Phurba will try the first double traverse of Everest. That means they'll climb it twice. First, they'll go up Tibet's North Ridge to the summit, then down Nepal's South Ridge. They'll then turn around and climb back up the South Ridge, cross the summit again, and head down the North Ridge to where they started — namely, the Pleasure Dome.

Ah yes, the Pleasure Dome. It's going to be hard for us all to leave this comfy oasis in a few days when Russ gives the order to head to Advance Base Camp. Right now, I'm looking out of the dome's window, watching the jet stream blast a plume of snow from the summit. It's 4.30 p.m. here and already the temperature outside is plummeting. But in here I can almost fool myself into thinking I'm home, safe and warm.

Signing off,
Greg Child

Comments

[Josh Caple]

hi Greg,
its josh (the blueys dirtbag) caple here... how have ya been matey?
well havent you gone and scored a cushy gig here!! looking forward to reading about your exploits this season
have fun!!
-jc.

[Warren Scott]

Hey Greg. Warren here from Castle Valley. Lillian and Aryann growing faster than the spring weeds. As soon as I get your email from Renee I'll send you pics. Best to you!
Warren