Moving to Advance Base Camp

[Click on the pictures to see larger versions with captions.]

The climbers and Discovery film crew are leaving for advance base camp (ABC) today and tomorrow, moving in two waves, each of about 14 people. This involves two days of travel up the East Rongbuk Glacier accompanied by a caravan of yaks. It'll be a test of equipment, because delicate video and computer gear will be lashed to the backs of yaks and roughly dumped onto the glacier at the end of each day. Let's hope my laptop survives so this blog may live on.

Because the journey takes us to 21,000 feet (6,400 meters) — a brain-bashing gain of about 4,000 feet (1,200 meters) spread out over 9 miles (14 kilometers) — we'll camp for one night at interim camp, at 19,000 feet (5,800 meters).

Meanwhile, on the North Ridge, Russell's Sherpa crew reached 24,500 feet (7,500 meters) today, fixing ropes and installing supplies. They'll probably be at 26,000 feet (8,000 meters) by the time we reach ABC. Climbing Sherpas are the backbone of all expeditions on this hill. Without them, not a lot would get done.

In each dispatch so far I've written about a few members of this large expedition. Let me introduce the rest of the climbers.

Betsy Huelskamp is the wild card to this team. A self-described Harley-riding biker chick from L.A., personal trainer and writer for biker Web sites, she has no technical climbing experience and she's never worn crampons. Her interest in Everest sprang from seeing the Discovery series, Everest: Beyond the Limit, and making the acquaintance of Tim Medvetz, a veteran of the 2006 season and prominent player in the series.

"If he can do it, so can I," she told me in Kathmandu. The sweet-natured 46-year-old feels that Everest has been "calling" her for a long time. "If God wants me to get to the top, then I will," she says.

Contrary to what seems logical, Everest has let many novice climbers gain its summit, so long as they've been accompanied by Sherpas, guides and good luck. If Betsy's determination is as strong as she believes and she remains fit, she may succeed.

I've already mentioned David Tait, the British manager of the $8 billion Peleton hedge fund. His plan is to make the first double traverse of Everest by climbing over the summit into Nepal then back into Tibet. He knows of roughly a dozen people who've made the traverse in one direction, but the double traverse, which occurred to him after his successful Everest ascent in 2005, is a new concept. The neat thing about it is that he will traverse the mountain and then return to the starting point.

David carries himself with the confidence of a self-made man with a mission — a "007 coolness" Betsy observes. His career in finance has been about taking risks and winning, and this mindset shows in his mission to Everest.

But there's another dimension to his ambitious plan: He wants to use the double traverse to promote the National Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Children (NSPCC). This U.K.-based organization runs shelters for abused children that incorporate a courtroom setting where children can testify about their ordeals.

David freely admits that he's thrown himself into the NSPCC because he himself was a victim of childhood abuse. Everest is not only a personal adventure for him that offers the chance to notch up a "first," but it's a platform to raise awareness about a devastating social problem. David Tait's Everest plan is gutsy, but laying open his childhood ordeal to promote a noble cause is even more gutsy.

When Darius Vaiciulis got the bug to climb Everest a couple of years ago, he phoned Russell's Himex office in Chamonix and asked what it would take to climb the world's highest peak. Russell recommended he test himself on a lower, easier 8,000-meter peak, Cho Oyu. So Darius signed up and made quick work of the mountain. The Lithuanian provider of cell phone services has little doubt he'll succeed, yet he's practical, saying that if something prevents him from reaching the summit he'll return another year.

Darius can often be found playing backgammon in the Pleasure Dome with Briton Rod Baber. The pair appear to have gelled into a team. Rod comes to the expedition with a unique mountaineering resume. Over 835 days during the ‘90s, he and a friend climbed the highest point in all of the 47 European nations. The highest was Mount Elbrus (18,619 feet/5,642 meters) in Russia, the lowest, 52 meters in Monaco. The adventure landed them a place in the Guinness Book of Records.

Rod's tales include weaving through minefields to get to the top of Bosnia's tallest peak and sneaking past Turkish army outposts to climb Mount Ararat. On Everest, he hopes to make the world's first cell phone call from the summit, which will be sponsored by Motorola.

In addition, we've got five Japanese climbers — Hiro, lead guide, and climbers Yanagi, Kobi, Take and Masa — whose ages range from 24 to 71. They're climbing somewhat independently from the rest of the team and the language barrier creates a polite wall between us, although Hiro asked today if we'd mind watching a subtitled version of Pirates of the Carribean in the Pleasure Dome tonight. Yong Li, a young Chinese climber, has also signed onto Russell's expedition.

Finally, a latecomer to the team is Swiss guide Josette Valloton. She's here for another gasless attempt on the North Ridge and is also climbing somewhat independently to the rest of the team, utilizing Russell's infrastructure to position herself for a summit bid.

It's now Tibetan noon and the cooks will soon be sounding the lunch gong. Half of the team left this morning with the yaks for the trudge up to interim camp and beyond. I'll be departing tomorrow, April 20, with the remainder of the climbers and film crew.

Communications may become more challenging beyond base camp as the cold and altitude takes a toll on our satellite phones and laptops — not to mention our brains. I won't blog until after April 23, when we've settled into ABC.

I'm looking forward to getting under Everest's North Ridge again. Twelve years have passed since I was there and last night's sunset, which turned Everest a magical shade of pink and gold, reminded me why people are drawn to the Himalayas.

Signing off,
Greg Child

Comments

[banana92692]

Good luck to the entire team. Thanks for the great blog. I'll be signing on daily to see how its going. GO BIG TIM!!!

[matt hardy]

good luck Betsy Huelskamp shes has the same idea as me that is wat i want to do after watching the programme on discovery good luck to her i hope she makes it cant wait to read your next blog from abc im currently looking on russels website to hopefully book a trip to abc.

[Laura & Ernie]

hi greg, we just returned home, snows almost gone on the hill, the rockies look smaller than they used to and we wish everyone a safe and successful journey. we'll keep on your blog to keep update, laura & ernie

[Kim Kent]

Hey Greg.. My name is Kim Kent and I'm from San Diego. I so LOVED the show last year and am so proud of all the climbers. What an awe inspiring show. GL to everyone especially Tim and Mogens. I have a back and wrist filled with Titanium so have even a better understanding of what Tim is going through. I know he will do it this time! Godspeed to all.

[enzo rocket]

Climb for yourself,
Climb for a cause,
Climb for us.

Adventure lives in everyone,
but some people just never discover it.

Good Luck to All of the Team!
wish I was there!

[Barbara Vasko]

If you could give besty a note...JV,s birthday is May 3. take that step for him.
love, bv

[joncatto]

Hi Greg!
sounds like the game is afoot! take care amigo.

[Rachel]

Hi ~ Just wanted to wish all of you the best with this climb. It's a great adventure and I can't wait till you bring it back for the rest of us to see. My kids and I are really enjoying the website and got hooked with your show last year. Get some great footage. I guess the camera crew is saving up their per diem for the party on the way out of there. Tell Tim that the "Rivenbark's" are keeping him and the rest of you in our prayers and to take a step up for us! Yeeee Haw! ~ Rachel

[Ute]

I miss my mom (Betsy); and pray daily for her safe passage to the top. Mark (My sitter) is praying for the whole team and is asking the Lord to grant them divine favor and saftey.
Come back to us soon mom...Ute

[Edward A. Rogers]

Greg,
Back in the US. Made wedding in time. Wish I was still with all of the climbers. Will be keeping up with blog. Great job! Tell all climbers to keep going strong!
Your friend from Texas,
Eddie

[Elizabeth Emshwiller]

Good Luck to all.I check the site daily for progress.GO TIM..YOU CAN DO THIS!!!Elizabeth RN, "the nurse" at sea level.

[Glenn Child]

G'Day Brother, Happy 50th glad you had a good half century celebration at the pleasure dome. We are all following your blog back home. Wish you and the team a safe and sucessful trip. All the best from your little brother back in Ozz, Luv Glenn

[Dan Baker]

Thank you for putting this blog up, I'll be watching it everyday!

I'd just like to wish the team/s a safe and succsessful climb!! All the best guys!

Dan.

[Ute]

God Bless you Greg; its good to see you all made it to advance base camp! I was wondering if you could post more pictures of the Wild Card Biker Chick from L.A.(Betsy) She is grately missed and loved. Our Prayers are with you all daily...Ute

[Edith]

Go Betsy!!! Yesterday I met a Tibetan Lama, who gave me a string necklace, which I am wearing to remind me of the blessing he gave to all of humanity and to the special prayer we said for you. Safe trip and come back safely!
Love you!

[Betsy Huelskamp!]

yo yo betz- how you doin'? I miss you, your wacky belly laugh and your ever lovin' grin!Sending you tons o' love and kisses, claudia